THAT TASTES RICH

As a London neighbourhood fights gentrification in the shape of bougie bakery Gail's, Hannah Twiggs looks at the foodie signs that your postcode is on the way up - or down

- Hannah Twiggs

In Walthamstow, the leafy enclave where babyccinos outnumber cocktails and prams are the unofficial mode of transport, the biggest drama used to be the waitlist for a pilates class.

But in the past few weeks, residents in this north London enclave have been under the spotlight for very different reasons. First, there was the anti-racism march on a street that was allegedly on a far-right hit list to target for an anti-immigration protest. Thousands of locals emerged, more leaned out of their windows, and even the shops closed early in solidarity.

And then, a new flurry of outrage: a petition to halt the arrival of Gail’s bakery, that temple of artisanal flour and overpriced sourdough. You’d think Walthamstow Village, with its parade of wine bars and Victorian homes priced in the stratosphere, would welcome Gail’s with open arms. But no, it turns out the locals are just as passionate about fighting gentrification as they are racism.

With hundreds of signatures, the petition declares: “Gail’s, although respected for their quality, brings a risk of overshadowing our much-loved local stores … threatening their very existence and dismantling the character and diversity crucial to Walthamstow’s charm.”

So there you have it. Gail’s, once just another purveyor of pricey pastries, is now the unwitting face of unwanted gentrification. The sign your neighbourhood has “arrived”, but also that your neighbourhood might be less cutting-edge cool and more… well, basic.

To help you navigate this slippery slope of the ins and outs and ups and downs of good versus bad gentrification, here’s our guide to decoding the gastro signs lurking on your doorstep.

From flat whites to flatlining: the decline of Costa and Pret