Ugly side of the beauty industry

From billboards to social media, consumers are bombarded with adverts promising youthful, flawless skin.

- Biomedical scientist Dr Judey Pretorius delves into the hidden dangers of the beauty industry and the true cost of chasing perfection

These marketing campaigns often feature celebrities and influencers, creating the illusion that the right product can unlock the secret to eternal beauty.

A stroll down the cosmetic aisles of South African retail stores shows shelves overflowing with serums, creams and lotions, each claiming to be the ultimate skincare solution.

But behind the glossy packaging and persuasive endorsements lies an industry that is largely unregulated, leaving consumers vulnerable to misleading claims and potentially serious health risks.

Who's (not) watching the shelves?

The South African Health Products Regulatory Authority (Sahpra) — formed in 2018 to replace the Medicines Control Council — plays a critical role in regulating medicines and health products. But its authority largely excludes cosmetics, unless those products make therapeutic claims such as treating acne or healing skin conditions.

This distinction creates a dangerous loophole. If a product claims to merely "beautify" or 'cleanse", it evades the kind of scrutiny applied to medicines — even if it contains active ingredients such as retinoids, hydroquinone or alpha hydroxy acids.

These substances, while effective, can be harmful when misused or poorly formulated. Yet under current law, they often avoid the testing and licencing required for pharmaceuticals. Sahpra only intervenes if a product crosses into the murky territory of being considered a “medicine”, as per the Medicines and Related Substances Act (Act 101 of 1965).

But even then, enforcement tends to be inconsistent and reactive, rather than preventative.

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