Danish delights

Detlef Jens enjoys sailing between Augustenborg and Aarø in the Baltic, one of the cruising grounds of his youth, which is still every bit as appealing today

- DETLEF JENS

Ghosting up the narrow Als Sound, with only the faintest breeze over glassy water, through a beautiful, picture-book scenery that is so typical for this part of the world, my mind begins to wander. The cows gaze at me dispassionately from the small beach at the head of the Sound as I quietly sail by, as I think back at my own past, if not quite so unemotionally.

This is where I spent large chunks of my youth, messing about in various boats. My memory begins to unfold as I sail on. The hard and clear blue sky and the bright red Danish flags, stiff in the fresh breeze. The cold and the dampness while cruising a dinghy through a rainy July, and the hot stillness of one of many perfect, northern summer days that seems to last forever, only so slowly slipping into a translucent night and then, before darkness really falls, shyly emitting an unmistakable radiance in preparation for yet another perfectly bright and hot day.

SAILING PLAYGROUND

This particular part of the Baltic, in the sheltered waters of the Lillebælt and the waters behind the island of Als, makes for an ideal playground. No tides, no distances worth speaking of, seldom any fog. A sense of voyaging even if one only sails a handful of miles each day. Scope for exploration and solitude and wildlife, with birds, the odd harbour porpoise, and jellyfish. In my youth, a sailing summer in Denmark used to consist mainly of jellyfish, hot dogs and first love. After a while I could at least handle the jellyfish and the hot dogs.