Desert Rose

Jaisalmer is full of surprises; while the city is teeming with havelis and markets, it is still possible to find some downtime in the middle of the Thar desert. Catch a cultural performance, chase sunsets, explore the dunes on a camel, and live like a king in the Golden City.

- Anuj Sarma

I may not have been Lawrence of Arabia but for a week I was a king, dining in the desert and riding on camelback in this land of golden dust—the Thar. Oh, the dust. It blew wildly, lashing my face, sneaking past my Bedouin-like scarf and my sunglasses. And yet I felt no discomfort. In the city, I would have complained to the governments and the gods, but here I was one with the land, the people and my camel. My desert sojourn began at Jaisalmer railway station, with a chauffeur in traditional attire—complete with a turban. We drove past the city that had been home to royalty since AD 1156. Its remote desert location and insouciant air made me fall in love with the city at once. Before the overland trade routes disappeared in the early 20th century, Jaisalmer was an important halt on the caravan trade routes between Egypt, Afghanistan and India. This trade benefited the rulers of the city who then hired the finest craftsmen available to build the breathtaking forts and havelis of the city. As we drove on, the buildings gave way to desolate landscape; our path was crossed by camels, and rural women wearing the brightest colours and most elaborate jewellery walking to their villages, sprinkled across the dusty terrain.

The resort of Suryagarh came into view. Impressively massive, the beating of drums and folk music emanated from somewhere inside. As we crossed the steps at the entrance, rose petals showered on us from above and we entered a luxurious lobby with seating in every corner and dominated by a huge tiger statue in a glass box.