Stars Of The South

With its plethora of native and local grape varietis and an increasing number of skilled and dedicated winemakers, southern Italy’s wine future is looking bright. Michaela Morris showcases some of its leading lights.

- Michaela Morris

Italy’s deep south has long been smoldering in the shadows of the country’s celebrated wines from further north. After flashes of greatness over the years the area has now reached a critical mass of top-quality wines. Sure, certain pockets still lag behind, but a revolution has been set in motion. Greater care in the vineyard and skilled winemaking are showing southern Italy’s grapes in their finest light.

The south is undoubtedly most associated with reds. Nerello Mascalese in Etna is synonymous with terroir-driven wines, and Aglianico provides some of Italy’s most age-worthy offerings. The latter continues to dazzle in Campania, while in neighboring Basilicata, cleaner winemaking and more discriminating oak use are proving to be Aglianico’s merit. Lesser-known Uva di Troia in Puglia and Carignano in Sardinia are equally exciting, and long-forgotten varieties such as Magliocco in Calabria and Tintilia in Molise are waiting in the wings.

Somewhat surprisingly for these southerly latitudes, the area also offers a hit list of fresh, flavourful whites. In Sicily, Grillo is on the rise, showing its crisp, dry, herbal side, and Etna’s racy, minerally Carricante continues to soar. Over in Abruzzo, Pecorino is making a rich and textural name for itself while Bellone could be Lazio’s future champion.

Finally, the south provides ample hunting ground for some of Italy’s best Rosatos. Unlike Provence’s pale rosés, they are often darker and packed with unique character. Look for Abruzzo’s Cerasuolo made from Montepulciano, Bombino Nero and Negro Amaro-based pinks of Puglia, and Gaglioppo in Calabria.