Adorn Magazine - May - June 2019Add to Favorites

Adorn Magazine - May - June 2019Add to Favorites

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In this issue

Gemstones have captivated generations since aeons – and not without reason. Indian scriptures are full of myriad references about gemstones being linked to planets and celestial bodies, and their power to script the destinies of those who wore them. So it came to be believed that gems had life-enhancing and healing powers in them.
Apart from their “curative properties”, these colourful geological entities were highly sought-after for their power to amplify the beauty of an ornament. Though the big three – emeralds, rubies and sapphires – and navratnas (a combination of nine gems), found their way into fine jewellery, a whole lot of gemstones were relegated to the sidelines and considered semi-precious.
Of late, the line between precious and semi-precious gems is blurring and haute couture designers are experimenting with rare and unusual gemstones that team up with diamonds in fine jewellery. This issue of ADORN focuses on avant-garde jewellery designer Harshad Ajoomal, founder and head designer of H. Ajoomal Fine Jewellery, Mumbai. A man of many parts, Harshad celebrates colours and infuses his contemporary jewellery with hitherto sparingly used gems in India, such as onyx, lapis lazuli, agate, quartz, and more. The Creative Charisma segment decodes Harshad’s creative process in designing couture collections.
In the Freeze Frame section we have yet another photo feature highlighting traditional but stylised silver and gold jewellery designed by Surabhi Didwania. Get to know more about this young and upcoming artist in Tete-a-Tete. In the Style Quotient section we have showcased the works of India-born, Dubai-based jewellery designer Vinita Michael.
Our US correspondent Smitha Sadanandan met with two up-and-coming jewellery designers – Anna Maccieri Rossi from Italy and America’s Andy Lif. While Anna’s geometric creations are dominated by the theme of time, Andy is known to impart colour to his jewellery by way of plique-à-jour enamelling and coloured gemstones.

designing for a better world

uk-based designer jasmine alexander’s works mirror life’s bitter-sweet truths in a highly individualistic way. slivers of her personality shine through in the form of a poet, an unpretentious thinker, an avant-garde jewellery designer, and a fearless crusader of the environment. the sentient designer recently partnered with the renowned ‘sea shepherd’ conservation society, a marine preservation organisation which uses direct action, to create the sea shepherd x jasmine alexander collection of limited edition pieces in 18-karat gold, stainless steel and argentium silver (nontarnish silver). jasmine alexander is an officially appointed ambassador of british jewellery, and an official advisory board member of sea shepherd uk.

designing for a better world

3 mins

Pallavi Foley's Take On Jewellery Trends

STYLE EXPERT PALLAVI FOLEY, celebrity jewellery designer, in an exclusive interview highlights the current jewellery trends, the rising popularity of body ornaments and the fast-changing tastes of consumers. Pallavi, who is acknowledged as India’s Elsa Peretti (of Tiffany fame) by the World Gold Council, is known for her biomorphic and sculptural designs in gold and silver. The awardwinning designer takes cues from nature, life, emotions, and other abstract concepts and interlaces a story around the pieces. Her collections are luxurious and have an unexpected element of incredulity. The avant-garde designer offers jewellery styling tips for today’s confident woman.

Pallavi Foley's Take On Jewellery Trends

5 mins

The Rising Star

Disha Patani, the new actor on the block, has wowed all with her million-dollar smile and has won over critics with her acting chops. Wrapped in diamonds set in contemporary gold silhouettes, Disha looks stunning in metallic ensembles teamed with silk, leather and lace. In a fashion flashback to the '80s, Disha plays the part of a seductive, glamorous gal from the golden era to perfection!

The Rising Star

4 mins

Desi With a Difference

Human rights-lawyer- turned jewellery designer PRIYANKA MURTHY’S designs spell modern minimalism to the tee. Just one look at her jewellery is enough for you to know that despite its simplistic clean lines, there is an unmistakable wow factor in every piece. The designs are extremely fresh and unique and tailored for the independent working woman.

Desi With a Difference

9 mins

Toranj Kayvon - Born Star

Little did we know that when we first met fashion photographer Toranj way back in 2013 for an editorial shoot that she would one day be gracing the cover herself. We immediately fell in love with her vivacious spirit, positive energy and prodigious talent. She is among the best when it comes to capturing the facets, sparkle and glitter of diamonds—evident from the fact that she has shot five covers for ADORN in these years. Toranj has also blossomed into a fine actor; she was seen in Manmarziyaan (2018) and will now appear in the upcoming film Kesari (2019), in which she has pivotal role. We chose this rising star in our midst for the March-April cover, and she once again worked her magic with diamonds – only this time, in front of the lens.

Toranj Kayvon - Born Star

4 mins

Keeping It Simple

Syna’s success can not only be attributed to their over a decade-long existence in the industry, but also their strong and clear aesthetic that hinges on “keeping it simple”. The creative force of Syna – Namrata and Dharmesh Kothari – are always stripping the design to its core to imbue their jewellery with a refreshing take. “We want to show the heart out instantly, and in its purest form, without losing its inherent character,” says Dharmesh. Each of Syna’s pieces has a little story, a little fragment of historical design and culture – all modernised to work timelessly.Dharmesh Kothari talks about their love for coloured stones, travels and design philosophy.

Keeping It Simple

5 mins

Siren Song

Italian maestro of erotica MILO MANARA has helmed ten illustrations, depicting an underwater rendezvous between a beautiful, alluring mermaid and a woman, for watchmaker Ulysse Nardin. The series was unveiled for the first time at the SIHH in Geneva in January 2019.

Siren Song

3 mins

‘Rarity & Authenticity Distinguish Orevermark Diamonds'

SACHIN JAIN, president, Forevermark India, speaks to ADORN about the growing popularity of jewellery set with hand-picked, rare diamonds that are as unique as each wearer.

‘Rarity & Authenticity Distinguish Orevermark Diamonds'

3 mins

Summer Splash

The Mood Is Classy Chic This Summer Season. An Enticing Clash Of Glamorous Ingredients Are Seen In These Audaciously Bold Jewels. Designed By Harshad Ajoomal Of H. Ajoomal Fine Jewellery, The In Vogue Jewels Highlight Unique Pairings Of Colour Gemstones And Diamonds.

Summer Splash

1 min

Butani's Ingenious Wonders

Exquisite elements make for organic creations that bring Butani’s craftsmanship and artistry to the fore. The brand’s distinctive style and creative harmony tie together the jeweller’s Indian heritage and Asian aesthetics.The Hong Kong-based haute joaillerie brand recently celebrated its 40th anniversary. A capsule collection – unveiled at Basel world earlier this year to mark the forty-year milestone – featured nine exquisitely handcrafted pieces that boldly embrace the brilliance of diamonds, while highlighting the subtle flowing lines and gentle drops. Among the show-stealers were opulent pieces that brilliantly distilled the beauty of fancy yellow diamonds.

Butani's Ingenious Wonders

4 mins

Forgotten Triumphs

(2nd place in The Student & Apprentice Category)

Forgotten Triumphs

1 min

The Best Of The Best

TEFAF MAASTRICHT IS THE WORLD’S LEADING ART AND ANTIQUES FAIR, HELD IN NETHERLANDS. KNOWN FOR OFFERING RARE AND MATCHLESS WORKS OF ART, THE FAIR DRAWS THE FINEST ART DEALERS AND EXPERTS FROM AROUND THE WORLD. THE 31ST EDITION OF TEFAF MAASTRICHT WAS HELD FROM MARCH 10TH-18TH THIS YEAR.

The Best Of The Best

2 mins

An Art Affair

Mahnaz Collection presents ‘London Originals: The Jeweler’s Art in Radical Times’ that opened on April 11 in New York. Here are some interesting facts about the show.

An Art Affair

2 mins

Carved Artworks

Acclaimed London-based jewellery designer FLORA BHATTACHARY’s stark yet appealing jewels set with distinctively carved gemstones evoke a powerful imagery, delicately balancing geometric forms with a delightful profusion of colours. India has a special pull on her. Flora’s ancestors travelled to the country to trade for the East India Company. The exotic and mystical landscapes and the travelogues impelled her to dig into India’s rich history. The mythological stories and references to Hindu goddesses further helped her to create collections that were enshrined in gold and gemstones. There is a distinct crossover of cultural influences in Flora’s unique compositions that dextrously team technology and traditional techniques to create future heirlooms.

Carved Artworks

5 mins

Staying True To Her Roots

Located in the heart of London’s famous Bond Street, the ultimate address of luxury jewellery brands, VanLeles, a fairly new entrant, is already making waves for its exclusive jewellery with a strong ethical message.

Staying True To Her Roots

8 mins

Opal Fixation

Dreamtime Is All About Nature,” Muses Bruce Harding, Founder Of The Kyoto Based Jewellery Brand, Specialising In Opals. “It’s About Taking Very Important Stones From Places All Over The World And Transposing Them Into A Thing Of Beauty, An Heirloom To Enhance Your Life. 

Opal Fixation

4 mins

Bespoke Craftsmanship

JESSICA POOLE is known for her bespoke bridal creations. Her mastery lies in bringing a fabric-like softness, fluidity, twists and folds to precious metals. She revels in the traditional methods of goldsmithing and derives great satisfaction from spending hours at the bench – slowly crafting metal into a defined shape. She further trained in Antwerp to master the art of micro pave setting so that she has greater control over the final product. When you know so much precision, effort and love goes into each piece, the resultant jewellery shines with a deeper radiance.Jessica worked with top British jewellery brands like De Beers and Boodles before setting out on her own. She speaks to ALIYA LADHABHOY about focusing on high-end bespoke creations and bridal collections.

Bespoke Craftsmanship

7 mins

Born To Be An Artist

Life in general is an inspiration for this Indian-born designer settled in America. Priyadarshini Himatsingka is well-known for her signature handmade creations that have a feel of imperfection leaning towards the Japanese concept of wabi-sabi. Defining modern minimalism, her austere creations in silver and gold are sometimes garnished with a smattering of rose-cuts that are specially cut in her studio.

Born To Be An Artist

2 mins

Bridal Fashion Jewellery Is Here To Stay

Till about five years ago, wearing bridal fashion jewellery on ones wedding day was considered a no-no. Today, with the rise in destination weddings, high-end fashion jewellery has suddenly gained popularity. For who would want to cart fine jewellery to an exotic resort and worry about its safety? And wouldnt it be easier to dance with gay abandon at ones sangeet ceremony wearing high-end fashion bridal jewellery and not lose sleep if a gem went missing?

Bridal Fashion Jewellery Is Here To Stay

2 mins

Van Gelder Indian At Heart

Sometimes the reasons for the ties that bind are inexplicable. Cultures that are not even remotely connected with your roots suddenly have a strong pull on you. An accidental encounter with a person from a foreign land, a small gift from a particular country, an invigorating talk or an inspiring quote can be reasons enough to act as a catalyst or a turning point in life, and help you chart your future.

Van Gelder Indian At Heart

9 mins

The Ebullient Art Of Razia Kunj

Teasing out and chiselling an alluring and classy piece of jewellery from a piece of wood can be a challenge as it can be difficult to manipulate it to get the desired result. Wood is organic and is expressive, according to RAZIA KUNJ, the creative founder of the eponymous label that she founded two years ago. Her handmade jewellery collections with colourful Indian motifs have a playful, quirky edge and are infused with a feisty spirit. Blending the natural character of wood with her artistic brilliance, Razia’s collections are earthy yet contemporary in form.

The Ebullient Art Of Razia Kunj

5 mins

vartika singh: more than just pretty

in a freewheeling interview on the sidelines of the shoot, vartika singh talks candidly to adorn about her achievements.

vartika singh: more than just pretty

4 mins

leshna shah: the high priestess of design

jewellery creations that are reflective of nature or undulating landscapes in an abstract way usually evoke a sense of wonder.

leshna shah: the high priestess of design

6 mins

cut from a different cloth

an artist is an artist after all, and aditi amin, a painter by hobby and banker by profession, chose to channel her creative energies into making fashion jewellery. the only similarity between her age-old hobby and her new-found passion was the canvas. yes, she uses the canvas as her base for jewellery and decorates it with crystals, glass, beads, woven zari braids and more. according to her, the label ‘by aditi amin’ is an amalgamation of her varied experiences and her quest to present before the world statement pieces which are bold, unique, fun and avantgarde. aditi says, “designing larger-than-life statement jewellery pieces is an expression of art.”she tells us about how this medium of creativity has helped her find her calling.

cut from a different cloth

3 mins

dual artistry

the lines between fashion and couture jewellery are blurring.

dual artistry

2 mins

purist

impassioned pursuance of art can produce spectacular results, as is the case with this unique online brand lai designs. designer-founder puja bhargava kamath speaks her heart out about the genesis of the brand and how her creations merge the best of both the worlds – indian and mid-century modern aesthetics.

purist

7 mins

Speaks Design

For a fairly new entrant in the world of jewellery, Mumbai-based designer Neha Roongtas designs are creating ripples. Her one-off compositions are bold and global in design, deftly combining the glamour quotient with high quality finish and unique gem settings.

Speaks Design

4 mins

Transforming Treasures

Repurposing or remodelling old, inherited jewellery has many paybacks, prime among them is being able to retain and wear the piece that has sentimental value attached to it. The other reason is to preserve such pieces that are created with timeless crafts most of which are today on the verge of extinction. Shanoo Bijlani spoke to three top designers from India to find out their take on the subject.

Transforming Treasures

5 mins

The Power Of Jewellery

The Metropolitan Museum of Art is holding anexhibition Jewelry: The Body Transformed that will explore the ways in which jewellery acts upon the body, its adornment functions; its ritualistic symbolisms, and how it fuels aspirations and more to form a collective, cultural memory. The exhibition will open on November 12 this year and run through February 24 next year.

The Power Of Jewellery

3 mins

Refined Minimalism

If you browse through Ageerika Hari’s jewellery at her brand Vaitaanika’s flagship store in Shahpur Jat, New Delhi, you will find that though the pieces are very much driven by Indian sensibilities, they have an air of restrained elegance. Textured gold, relief work, openwork elements and a bevy of gemstones are complemented by clean lines, symmetry and simplicity in forms. The pieces are striking without being overbearing or loud. The brand embraces individuality to its fullest as Ageerika creates only one piece of every design. Once sold, the design is never repeated at the workshop. Ageerika speaks to Aliya Ladhabhoy about the brand’s minimalistic lines.

Refined Minimalism

2 mins

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Adorn Magazine Description:

PublisherSpenta Multimedia Pvt Ltd

CategoryFashion

LanguageEnglish

FrequencyBi-Monthly

Adorn is India’s first magazine dedicated to the art of fine jewellery. It is published and circulated in India by Spenta Multimedia, the country’s largest custom publisher. The bi-monthly publication that was started in 2010 is the premier source of information for jewellery connoisseurs and designers. Adorn chronicles India’s jewellery design capabilities and keeps an eye on global trends.

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