CHASING SUMMER

On a trip to Maine's Mount Desert Island, Dinaw Mengestu had an ambitious, high-energy itinerary. Then his family reminded him what quality time is all about

- Dinaw Mengestu

The Mount Desert Narrows, seen from the top of Cadillac Mountain, in Acadia.

WE ARRIVED ON Mount Desert Island just before Labor Day weekend, after which our sons, Louis and Gabriel, would be returning to school. The summer up until then had been built around extended visits to family and friends. This trip to Maine, my wife, Anne, and I had decided, would be a retreat for just the four of us, with as few distractions as possible. We pictured rocky, remote islands, pine trees, and tents under a night sky filled with stars. There would be days with no cell phones or computers, spent wandering around Acadia National Park, which covers roughly half of Mount Desert Island.

This wasn’t our first trip to Maine. Two years earlier, we had visited a friend’s oceanfront home just outside the town of Rockland. We ate soft-shell lobsters fresh from the ocean and witnessed afternoon storms followed by sunsets that turned the sky a vivid shade of pink. Anne and I developed a habit of describing that trip in near-mystical terms, as somehow both ordinary and magical, familiar and unlike anything else.

Our five-day itinerary on Mount Desert Island was intended to recapture that magic, with visits to nearly every corner of Acadia, along with enough lobster shacks, pie stands, forest preserves, and coastal villages to fill an entire summer. We would first spend two nights at Under Canvas Acadia, a glamping site a 35-minute drive away on the adjacent Blue Hill Peninsula. Then we would cross the short causeway that connects the mainland to Mount Desert and stay four nights in Bar Harbor, the island’s largest town.