THE LURE OF LUSTRE

THE GOSSAMER-THIN CHANDERI REMAINS CENTRAL TO INDIAN FASHION AS WEAVERS ADAPT TO INCLUDE NEW DESIGNS

- HIMAKSHI PANWAR

THE LORE OF THE LUSTROUS Chanderi sari has been woven intricately over time, with its roots spanning centuries, from mentions in Vedic scriptures like the Mahabharata to its royal revival. In 1910, a gold thread motif was added to the cotton muslin saris under the patronage of Madho Rao Scindia, the Maharaja of the erstwhile princely state of Gwalior. This golden thread that the world knows as zari not only accentuated the beauty of the saris but transformed them into luxury wearables.

An authentic handwoven Chanderi sari, known widely for its gauzy texture, has another significant tell: the motifs.

When I travelled to Chanderi, the textile town in Madhya Pradesh where these GItagged saris are made, a small-scale weaver named Bhagwan Das explained how the unique motifs or butas define an original Chanderi masterpiece.