MIRAGE OF TIME

I STEPPED INTO BHAKTAPUR Durbar Square, and my breath was taken away.

- ANAND NEELAKANTAN

Those visiting Nepal often skip this heritage site for the stunning mountain vistas, but a history buff like me was as excited as a kid unwrapping a present.

The intricate carvings seemed like an ancient jewel box that had come to life. Ornate wooden structures reached skyward, their tiered roofs adorned with gleaming golden finials. Stone statues of gods and kings stood as silent sentinels, their weathered faces hinting at centuries of history. Erase the few billboards and mobile shops from your vision and you could be standing in a medieval city teeming with life. Thanks to the Chinese, the rebuilding of this city after the earthquake has been spectacular.

As I wandered around the square, my mind drifted to the rich past of this remarkable place. Bhaktapur was once the glittering capital of the Malla kingdom, a powerful dynasty that ruled the Kathmandu Valley for over 300 years. Founded in the 12th century by King Ananda Malla, the city grew into a vital hub along the ancient trade route between India and Tibet. Subsequent rulers, like Yaksha Malla and Bhupatindra Malla, continued to expand and embellish Bhaktapur. Each left their mark through grand building projects and artistic patronage. With its five-tiered roof, the towering Nyatapola Deval Temple stood as a testament to their vision and craftsmanship.

My family, impatient to reach Pokhara, was trailing behind me with indulgent smiles. They bear with me on the condition that the next day, I will bear with their adventures and participate in a few of them. Meanwhile, I could sit here, in this old town, forever.