EVERYDAY ELEGANCE

THE SHANTIPURI TANT IS ON THE VERGE OF BEING LOST TO TIME. BUT HOPE IS ON THE HORIZON

- ANURADHA SENGUPTA

THE SHANTIPURI SARI, IN A way, can be compared to today's denim," said Amitra Sudan Saha, revivalist at Ssahaworks Studio. "It was for everyday use. The sari was worn by Brahmo Samaj girls as a customary school and college uniform."

The legendary Shantipuri sari is a centuries-old tant derived from Shantipur in the Nadia district of West Bengal. This ancient handloom industry has been mentioned in manuscripts that glorify the life of Advaita Acharya and Bengali folklore.

A LEGACY LOST

"The traditional art of weaving in Shantipur in Bengal is said to have begun in 1409 AD during the reign of Gaur Ganesh Danu Mardhandev," said Saha. This sari-weaving practice flourished in the late 17th century under the rule of the Nadia king, Rudra Roy, and has continued ever since.

The craft gained prominence during the Mughal-era, when sari production became systematised, leading to their export to countries like Afghanistan, Iran, Arabia, Greece, and Türkiye. The unique quality of Shantipur saris, woven from hand-spun yarn of 200-300s, distinguished them in the market, and they could easily compete with imported Manchester cotton yarn.

THE VOCABULARY OF THE SARI

Despite their elegant simplicity, a Shantipur sari is deceptively complex. "The anchal, or