CHASING CURRENTS

FROM CURIOUS ONLOOKERS TO PLAYFUL DOLPHINS, A JOURNEY ALONG THE GANGA FROM KANPUR TO VARANASI UNFOLDS LAYERS OF HISTORY AND CHARM

- ANANDA BANERJEE

ON A BRIGHT, SUNNY DAY in early October, 2009, I joined a group of river runners to journey down the Ganga from Kanpur to Varanasi. Amidst a modest crowd of curious onlookers, the 12 of us sped along in three inflatable boats, each powered by 40-horsepower engines, cutting through the tranquil waters of the river. Starting from the historic Massacre Ghat in Kanpur, our fluorescent orange boats quickly became a source of fascination. Such vessels were rare in these waters, where smaller, more traditional boats were typically used. People gathered along the banks, while children ran alongside, waving enthusiastically.

As we made our way toward Dalmau, between Raebareli and Fatehpur, human habitation grew sparse. While the boats navigated the shifting channels to find the smoothest path, I saw it as a unique opportunity to learn firsthand how a river flows and shifts with time.

As the river flows onward, it steadily carves one side of the bank, becoming heavy with mud and sand. Too weary to carry it further, the river deposits its load on the opposite shore, much like a relieved porter setting down his burden. I watched as the mud cliffs crumbled and melted into the current, layer by layer. The river battered the rocky cliffs, but they stood unshaken, marked only by a few crevices or holes, which swallows, martins, and bee-eaters happily turned into nesting sites.