CITY LIFE - OSLO

Urban regeneration, fjord life and friluftsliv - the concept of celebrating outdoor living regardless of the weather - make Norway's capital an appealing summer getaway. And this underappreciated city is having its moment in the sun

- LAUREN HO

In Oslo, one of the first things you notice is the smell of hot dogs. Just as Istanbul is fragranced with cinnamon and saffron, and Malaysia is associated with the pungent whiff of durian, the reassuring smell of hot dogs — pølse, in Norwegian — lingers in the air of Norway’s capital, wafting from convenience stores all over the city. Served the traditional way in a thin flatbread, this humble snack holds a lot of cultural significance in Norway; it’s said that around 450 million of them are eaten in the country each year. But this unassuming city has come a long way since hot dogs were its main culinary claim. With thriving neighbourhood coffee shops, innovative fusion cuisine and, in 2022, the addition of three new Michelin-starred restaurants, Oslo’s food scene is having a moment.

Sitting at the head of Oslofjord, an inlet along the country’s southern coast, Oslo has flown quietly under the radar for years, often overlooked in favour of Copenhagen or Stockholm. Yet the city has just as much design, culinary and architectural punch as its Scandinavian neighbours. The fact it’s not so firmly on the tourist map just means it doesn’t feel as busy — an added bonus.

“Oslo is such an underrated city,” says Curtis Rojak, the founder of Viking Biking & Hiking, as we pedal along a newly developed 5.5-mile promenade. The path connects a series of neighbourhoods that have been created from 560 acres of former industrial land.