YOSHII'S OMAKASE

Behind a heavy sliding door at Crown Sydney, one of Australia's trailblazing Japanese chefs exhibits a rare mastery of the craft, writes MATTY HIRSCH.

- MATTY HIRSCH.

About halfway through the evening, it became clear that the gentleman to my right was not just a familiar face at Yoshii's Omakase, but a frequenter of the other 15-plus omakase establishments that have taken Sydney by storm in recent years. He told me he'd dined at almost all of them, then proceeded to admit that this was the only one worthy of repeat visits.

I can't say I've been to half as many, but I can understand why he keeps returning. It sure isn't the $350 price tag, which might be the priciest of its kind in the country. Most of it has to do with the chef, Ryuichi Yoshii, whose name has long been synonymous with first-class sushi in the Harbour City. But before we delve into the sushi, we should probably discuss the rice.

Unlike others, Yoshii cooks his in a claypot over charcoal and seasons it with red sake-lees vinegar, known for its mellower tartness. The grains emerge beautifully, delicately bound.