Nocturnal appropriation
Gourmet Traveller
|May 2025
Why do some international cities come awake at night, while others nod off? Long-time city lover ANNA HART reveals the five habits of highly successful nocturnal cities.
THERE ARE CITIES THAT OWN THE MORNING, and there are cities that dominate the night. Australia and New Zealand have the sort of wild breakfast and brunch scene - often right after a raucous early-morning dog-walk/surf/hike/yoga session - that would blow Spain’s tiny mind. Listen, we're in good company: many of the world’s best cities - Cape Town, Los Angeles, Zurich, Vancouver - also sparkle at dawn but sort of suck after 10pm.
Before you object, of course it’s possible to have a brilliant night out in Melbourne. But even Australia’s best late-night players are no match for a Madrid, or a New York, or a Buenos Aires, Nairobi, Osaka, Guadalajara or Budapest. During a lifetime of travelling, writing about cities and urban culture, I’ve marvelled at these magical cities of the night. And wondered what cultural norms, or habits, or even lessons in urban infrastructure, might help square cities nurture a more diverse, inventive, safe and nourishing nighttime culture. This is what I've learned from too many late nights on city streets around the world.
Normalise late-night eats, like Madrid
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