New classics

The future of wine lies in structure and a deeper connection to place, writes NED GOODWIN.

- NED GOODWIN

The “next generation” connotes many things: better stewardship of vineyards, less manipulation in wineries and greater diversity amid a male dominion. From a vinous perspective, there remains a strong trajectory towards lighter, fresher, more transparent wines.

After years of easy-going styles, often soupy, anodyne and bereft of structure, there is a hankering for moreishness. Wines to get the teeth into, with a chomp of tannin and a waft of freshness. Wines with enough of these structural elements to promote drinkability, versatility at the table, and savouriness over overt fruit. This next gen transcends the vapid mould of hipster sameness, delivering a soulful message of provenance and of place.