KING CLARENCE

The Bentley Group's latest outing marks an exciting foray into uncharted territory

- MATTY HIRSCH.

When Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt open something new, people rock up. Simple as that. Never mind if it’s December, the pinnacle of party season. Or that we’re faced with an ongoing staff shortage. On opening night at King Clarence, the sixth addition to the restaurateurs’ esteemed stable, none of this seems to matter.

Fresh off a fully booked lunch service, the 100-seater is somehow still fizzing with energy at dinnertime. Rock lobsters, prised live from the tank, grilled and sauced in gochugaru and plum vinegar, are making their way onto every third table. Bottles of German riesling, grower Champagne and grenache from the Rhône are being uncorked left, right and centre. Some of the floor team may be more unseasoned than others, but they’re clearly committed and, for day one, hiccups are few and far between.