A passage to India

Melbourne-based chef HELLY RAICHURA explores the regional flavours of India in her new cookbook The Food of Bharat.

- HELLY RAICHURA

I COME FROM A FAMILY THAT HAS ALWAYS BEEN obsessed with food and produce. Living in Ahmedabad in the west of India, we were fortunate enough to have access to abundant local produce, as well as produce from the other 27 geographically and culturally diverse states of India.

My family's cooking techniques and food philosophy were clear, and perhaps ahead of their time: source your own produce, follow seasonality, preserve and ferment skilfully, consume a balanced diet, and make everything from scratch. Growing up with these guiding principles has always fuelled my curiosity and passion for cooking.

Since the early days of Enter Via Laundry in 2018, I have been researching regional Indian cuisine, discovering that to truly understand a cuisine it is important to first understand the country and its civilisation, history and evolution.

Bharat is the oldest-known name of the subcontinent we now call India, which is why I decided to call this book The Food of Bharat. This book is the story of my food, a compilation of the discoveries I've made from my travels in India, and a tribute to the evolution of Bhartiya Bhojan: the food of Bharat.

GOBI ACHAR

Spiced cauliflower pickle

MAKES 600GM

Cauliflower has been cultivated in India for the last 200 years. It was introduced from England in 1822 by Dr Jemson of Company Bagh, Saharanpur. The imported seeds were tested in various parts of India and, once it was being successfully grown, it was used for several applications, one of which is a pickle. Gobi pickle is the perfect condiment to serve with many mains, and a great way to preserve this delicate vegetable.