HOLD THAT THOUGHT

At a big-hearted temple retreat in rural Japan, Zen rituals fused with mindfulness practices teach Kate Crockett to be more present

- Kate Crockett

Clockwise from top left: A stone path through a Zen garden at Dairyuji, a temple in Japan's Tohoku region; a purification basin at Dairyuji; maple trees near the temple's entrance; geta, or traditional wooden flip-flops

I'M SITTING SILENTLY in seiza, a kneeling meditation position, watching the morning sun catch the eaves of the bell tower outside the window and bathe its copper tiles and vermilion columns in crisp light. The glow spreads to the garden below, over the azaleas, stone lanterns, and a lotus pond, filtering through maple leaves about to turn yellow. I wonder if my kids have done their music practice and whether I should have opted for a crossed-leg position. Certainly not lotus, or even half lotus. I take a deep, intentional breath, sensing the stillness of those seated beside me. I cast my eyes down and let my thoughts come and go as the garden fades from my consciousness.

Soon, a bell chimes. I shake out my legs and follow the head priest, in flowing brown and black robes, as he pads barefoot across the tatami into the ceremony hall, which is noticeably cool at this early hour. He prostrates himself before the altar before breaking into a haunting, discordant ritual chanting that fills the hall, offering blessings: to Buddha, to his teachings, and to the temple family, which, for now, includes me. I make my own offering, and we leave the hall for breakfast.