Permit Room London

Everyone's heard of Dishoom, but what about its spin-off venture?

- WORDS HANNAH BRANDLER

The London debut of Dishoom's sister venue occupies prime corner real estate on Portobello Road in Notting Hill – a fittingly lively street for such an addition.

The all-day restaurant pays tribute to Bombay's Permit Rooms, which emerged in the 1970s after the lifting of prohibition, when people secured liquor permits "for the preservation or maintenance of health".

This spirited history has been transported to west London, with characterful design to match the buzzy atmosphere. Across two floors are rattan and plant-filled interiors, dark wood walls brightened by South Asian artwork from Rajiv Menon Contemporary, plus a medley of soul and disco tunes, while reggae beats drift in from the street.