More Japanese Embracing Foreign Rice, Even Before Tariff Saga

When a severe rice shortage sent prices skyrocketing in Japan in 2024, Tokyo restaurant owner Arata Hirano did what had once seemed unthinkable: He switched to an American variety.

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TOKYO —

The price of the Californian Calrose rice he buys has doubled since his first purchase last summer, but even so, it is far cheaper than home-grown grains.

“Unless domestic prices fall below Calrose prices, I don’t plan to switch back,” said Mr. Hirano, whose restaurant offers meal sets of fish, rice, soup, and sides.

His willingness to embrace foreign rice may presage a seismic change in mindset for Japanese businesses and consumers — one that could allow Tokyo leeway to relax some restrictions if rice becomes a thorny topic in tariff talks with US President Donald Trump, who has called out Japan’s high levies on its staple grain.

Wholesale prices for domestic rice have surged about 70 percent over the past year to hit their highest levels since current records began in 2006. Crops were hit by extreme heat while a tourism boom has added to demand. Worries abound that not much will change in 2025.

With inflation also raising the cost of living, businesses are now betting that a nation of people known for their discerning palates and pride in their staple grain is open to change.

Supermarket giant Aeon last week began selling an 80:20 American-Japanese blend that is about 10 percent cheaper than domestic rice after a sales test run proved a hit. Fast-food chain Matsuya and restaurant operator Colowide began serving pure American rice in 2025. At supermarket chain Seiyu, Taiwanese rice has been flying off the shelves since 2024.