The Fatted Calf: A feast for diners, a feat for farmers

Right on the Tagaytay-Nasugbu Road, not far from the Mendez junction, is a former coffee farm that now yields more than the perky brew's beans.

- JOANNE RAE M. RAMIREZ

By patronizing small farmers and adhering to the seed-to-table cooking style, The Fatted Calf by chefs Jay Jay and Rhea SyCip yields not just feasts for diners—it enables farmers to enjoy more feasts as well.

Chef Jay Jay says the Fatted Calf is a gift from God, just as its name is inspired by the parable of the Prodigal Son. He retells to our group the parable, where the prodigal son finds himself starving after his wanton wastes and recalls that in his father's house, his father's servants have much better food than he was having. He returns to his father's house, where he is welcomed with loving arms and a feast.

"This restaurant celebrates family and feasts," says chef Jay Jay, who, like his wife, is very hands-on in the open kitchen.

How they got there is a journey in itself. When Jay Jay and Rhea were given notice to vacate the house in Silang where The Fatted Calf used to be, Sen. Loren Legarda happened to dine in their restaurant.

"Sabi niya, 'Halika kayo, sumama kayo, may lupa ako,'" recalls chef Jay Jay, who was at first skeptical because at least 30 others before the senator had offered them land to build a restaurant on, but with no follow-up.

"But that same day, her assistant called, saying, 'Sen. Legarda is waiting for you in her farm,'" he recalls. "We went to her house in the farm, not far from Antonio's, and she showed us around. She said, 'This is me.'"

"I have been wanting to bring to life my Lola Mameng's little farm coffee farm from the '50s," Loren told this writer.