On the sauce Just drinkin the gapyah nostalgia

Kruk 213 Blenheim Grove, SE15

- Josh Barrie

There's a little collection of what you'd call "gap yah" Thai places in London. Speedboat fits the bill: pool table, beer towers and colourful plates piled high with noodles. Khao Bird is another: I enjoyed the Chiang Mai-style hot dog and mutton curry fries there not long ago, with a cocktail amusingly called the "White Lotus", a spiced margarita with flavours of lemongrass and lychee.

Those who once donned a Chang beer vest may apply. None of this is said to be disparaging, by the way.