A modern pub that’s hot to trot

I had all but forgotten about Le Bab, the high-end kebab shop that launched in Soho almost a decade ago. I visited the first place in Kingly Court and was enamoured by the food.

- Josh Barrie

Detractors suggested it was a sanitised version of skewered meats and flatbreads. Either way, there are six sites now.

From the same people — Stephen Tozer (one of the friendliest people in the game; sports an astonishing six pack) and Ed Brunet (once on the line at Gavroche; six pack status uncertain) — we have a pub, The Dark Horse in Camden. Similar to Le Bab, it’s clean and shiny, with buffed brick walls, music posters and beautiful wood. It feels quite tourist-ready New York. Clinical, but no bad thing really.