HEAVEN ON WHEELS

Chiara Mapelli cycles Amalfi's 'Divina Costiera', finding an authentic, beautiful - and lemon-scented - side to the area

- Chiara Mapelli

Here’s the truth: I’m scared of the chaotic roads in my homeland of Italy. It’s a bit like Bret Easton Ellis’s opening declaration in his debut novel, Less Than Zero, about people’s fear of merging on freeways in LA.

But instead of five-lane motorways and 18-wheelers speeding past, I’m terrified of Italy’s unruly mopeds, wandering pedestrians, and narrow, twisty curves along steep cliffs – all sights that make the Amalfi Coast both an iconic destination and one of the most overcrowded.

Today, I’m hopping on a bike to find an alternative way to enjoy the coast’s unmissable views without the crowds.

“We stopped offering the classic cycling experience along the busy Amalfi Drive, especially during the summer,” Peter Hoogstaden tells me in a strong Neapolitan accent. A Dutch engineer who moved here over 25 years ago, Peter is one of the pioneers of Italy’s active and sustainable tourism, and my guide for today’s nearly 25-mile cycling tour.

We are starting in the Unesco town of Minori – a lesser-known but strategic base for outdoor activities, just 2.5 miles from Amalfi – continuing up to glamorous Ravello, then through the green mountains to Tramonti, and ending in the seaside town of Maiori. “We must think beyond the usual itineraries and tourist seasons,” he concludes, clipping on his helmet. And with that, we’re off on an off-season, mid-March ride – perfect for my nowlower heat tolerance after a decade of living in England.