Village could've been a city

Arty, foodie garden heaven in E Cape

- Jim Freeman

With an unofficial slogan of "No thirst like Bathurst", it's no surprise that a small, historic settlement in the Eastern Cape is jocularly referred to as "a drinking village with a farming problem".

Had it not been for a snap decision by then-governor of the Cape Colony, Lord Charles Somerset, Bathurst would have been the district's administrative capital instead of Grahamstown (Makhanda), 40km to the northwest.

For those relatively few people who have ventured the 13km up the R67 from Port Alfred, Bathurst is known chiefly for two things: the world's biggest (man-made) pineapple and the legendary Pig and Whistle Inn. I have visited both on occasion - always, however, in passing - and the last time I was there with my partner Rose-Marie a couple of years ago, we agreed it would be worth spending a couple of nights to explore the village more thoroughly.

The inn's owners, Gavin and Lucille Came, were more than happy to open their doors and hearts to us (in true Eastern Cape fashion, even though they're from Gauteng) and suggested we arrive in time for Sunday lunch on the stoep.

The Pig and Whistle is known throughout the Albany district for the quality and conviviality of this midday repast and it draws repeat diners from Grahamstown, Bushmansriver, Kenton-on-Sea and Port Alfred. It is also a regular stop for local motorcyclists on their weekly breakfast runs.