VIVA VERSACE

Before his tragic murder, Gianni Versace was the rock star couturier whose designs dominated the nineties. As a unique new exhibition of his work opens in London, fashion commentator CARYN FRANKLIN delivers her verdict on the man who altered the way we dress

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O CREATE an impactful retrospective of any fashion designer’s work, there are things that must be in place — sensation and spectacle for instance.

Karl von der Ahe, curator of the Gianni Versace Retrospective, which opens in London today, agrees.

“The sheer number of original looks brings the era of Gianni Versace’s reign to life like never before,” he says. “Versace presented himself as constantly surprising, a creative spirit and a resurrected Renaissance prince.

“He took this connection between ego and product to the extreme. In this respect, he was a true artist: he lived for and through his work.”

It’s been 28 years since the Italian fashion designer was shot dead outside his Miami home - but his sartorial legacy still lives on.

Now, Versace’s work is to be celebrated in an exhibition featuring 450 original vintage garments and accessories. Also included are iconic pieces worn by Princess Diana, Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Sir Elton John and George Michael.

So, why do his designs still resonate with us strongly? Drama or conflict brings extra sizzle to any fashion house storytelling and Versace delivers on both counts.

Gianni was able to polarise opinion with his use of vibrant prints, luxurious materials, and the iconic Medusa motif that symbolises power and opulence.

But as was often the case, dissenters made their distaste clear. Suzy Menkes, the UK’s leading and most revered fashion writer, critiqued Versace’s designs as over-the-top or lacking in refinement. And British fashion commentators, myself included, labelled his work “kitsch” or “gaudy” for appealing to attention-seeking celebrities.

“This was his genius,” explains Karl von der Ahe. “The nostalgic appeal of the Versace aesthetic of the 1990s shapes our current understanding of identity, fame and consumption.”

Anna Wintour, American Vogue’s former editor-in-chief, who reflected upon Gianni’s legacy in 2018, agrees.