Rolling with the dough

The humble bread is no longer a filler or accompaniment, but the main star on fine-dining and deli menus, and a marker of social status

- Rituparna Roy

The Vietnamese 'banh mi' at Bastian.

At Mumbai's recently opened Franco-American restaurant SoBo 20, which specialises in Louisiana's Cajun and Creole cuisines, the guests particularly look forward to the warm sourdough focaccia squares.

The Italian flatbread is a textural delight: lightly charred on the edges and an airy crumb that gives it the perfect chewy bite. Paired with the house butter and topped with crisp, fried sage, it elevates the whole act, setting the tone for some serious flavours to follow.

SoBo 20's executive chef Sudeep Kashikar bakes about 500 portions of the focaccia bread every week. Called "SoBo bread", it has now become one of the most Instagrammable dishes from the menu.

I'm curious about the technique, and ask Kashikar to take me through the making of his signature bread. It starts with proofing the dough for 48 hours, during which it goes through a process called cold fermentation in the refrigerator. While the temperature suppresses the yeast activity, it helps the enzymes in the flour to break down the starch molecules and gluten, resulting in the release of flavour compounds. While Kashikar has a standard recipe, Mumbai's perennial humidity means that he is constantly evaluating the yeast, sugar and water ratios. It is also one of the reasons why the dough is not proofed at room temperature, as humidity speeds up the fermentation process. His team bakes the bread every morning after the dough has completed the two-day fermentation cycle, following which it is rested and cut into desired portions. Once the order is placed, the bread is glazed with a spice mix and put on a charcoal grill for approximately 60 seconds; one more coat of glaze is added in between for that extra char.

"From the gluten content to the quality of flour and even the pH level of water matter. So if I am putting in so much time, effort and patience, why not make it the hero of the meal?" says Kashikar.