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Stepping up to the plate

Mint Hyderabad

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November 15, 2025

"There are," wrote Julian Barnes with the certainty born of experience in The Pendant in the Kitchen, “certain dishes always best eaten in restaurants, however tempting the cookbook version appears.”

- SHALINI UMACHANDRAN

As a Barnes fan, I have taken his advice to heart and cook as little and as rarely as possible for myself. I'm one of those “evolving consumers” that restaurant industry reports gleefully describe as responsible for “India’s dining boom”, a phenomenon of the past 15 years.

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