How nontoxic is 'nontoxic' cookware?

Many brands claim to have safer chemical coatings on their pots and pans. But can you trust what's on the label?

- Michelle Toh

If you're looking for a new pot or frying pan these days, prepare to get bombarded by terms like "nontoxic," "PFAS-free" and "PTFE-free.

But these labels don't necessarily mean what you might think. In 2023, the popular cookware brand HexClad was sued by a group of consumers for this reason. They claimed several of the company's pans were labelled nontoxic but contained a chemical called PTFE, commonly marketed as Teflon, which can release toxic fumes when overheated.

HexClad denied wrongdoing but agreed to pay a $2.5 million settlement.

So how much should you worry about your cookware, and what do reassuring labels actually mean? Here's what you should know:

The dangers of certain pots and pans

Safety concerns about cookware mostly revolve around a class of chemicals known as PFAS, also called "forever chemicals" because they can linger in the environment and our bodies for years. Some PFAS have been linked to cancers, liver disease and developmental delays in children.

Today, there are thousands of these chemicals around us. But the first to gain prominence was Teflon. It was discovered by accident in 1938 and became best known as the coating on nonstick cookware, because it's so slippery and so stable. After you've scrambled eggs in a Teflon pan, the eggs release and the Teflon stays.

Or at least that's the idea. Metal utensils or years of wear and tear can scratch and chip pans, which can lead to some of the coating getting into your food, even if you can't see it.