Sun rise and shrine

Shoken. This is where we also see the first of many impressive torii - traditional Japanese gates found at the entrance to Shinto shrines.

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Later, a leisurely stroll around the pleasant grounds of the Emperor's Imperial Palace and the equally impressive Senso-ji Buddhist temple at Asakusa.

There, we were lucky enough to catch a traditional wedding with the bride and groom elegantly clad in colourful kimonos, nervous and excited en route to the ceremony, sheltered under brightly coloured paper wagasa (umbrella).

Fortune favoured us again as we spied parents taking their little ones, again in pretty traditional garb, to celebrate Shichi-Go-San (Seven-Five-Three) at the shrine - a rite of passage and festival day for three, five, and seven-year-olds, marking development milestones in the child's life.

Back to the hotel after a full day, a stop en route to attempt the city's famous Shibuya Scramble Crossing as dusk fell seemed reckless. Yet it proved incredibly safe and easy, and all because the Japanese only cross when signalled to do so and because they're such polite people.

It takes time to get used to the polite nodding and bowing but it's a remarkably endearing trait. Many thousands transfer safely every hour at the busy seven-crossing junction that in another country would be an accident blackspot.

The sky blackens as we head back, providing the perfect contrasting backdrop to Shibuya's spectacular neon showcase - a kaleidoscope of light and colour that has visitors craning their necks at every angle.

It's a busy city but it doesn't take long to notice on its packed streets no one is smoking, or eating on the hoof or barging into you - there's no litter and there are no louts.

Sadly, it would take a week to do all Tokyo's tourist treasures justice but a date with Japan's 12,389ft-tall highest peak and active volcano that is Mount Fuji, was calling.