Sub-zero warmth

IT'S ALL WHITE Ready for the Lights

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Floating on my back with only a layer of thick neoprene keeping the icy water at bay was surprisingly relaxing. My time in Swedish Lapland was an epic subzero adventure. I left with a warm heart filled with stories of the kind people we met and the fascinating insights and experiences they shared.

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who dream of sleeping under the aurora, there are also two cone-shaped cabins with windows looking out at the stars.

It is glamping in the loosest sense of the word. The only home comfort I missed was an adjoining shower room, with slots for showers instead available in a shared sauna block (often under the watchful eye of the site's curious resident squirrel, Coco).

As the camp's name suggests, many guests come with a bucket-list dream of seeing the Northern Lights. But even if they prove elusive, you are unlikely to go home disappointed.

This region is brimming with wintry magic and the rich culture of the indigenous Sami people.

The Sami languages have more than 300 words to describe snow conditions and capture the nuances of texture, depth, and environmental impact. When we checked into Brandon Lodge, I found out why.

The main building and 15 timber cabins overlook the vast expanse of the Bothnian Bay, part of the Baltic Sea. After a hearty breakfast of meats, cheeses, fruit and bread, I strapped on a pair of snowshoes and followed our guide, Arne, into the forest for a crash-course in Nordic winter skills.

As we walked for what felt like a mile (but was only a few hundred yards), we passed large rocks deposited by melting glaciers.

The shoes made me clumsy but were necessary to avoid sinking into the hidden pits of deep snow.

Arne pointed out various natural sights, including long strands of Old Man's Beard hanging from the trees.

The straggly lichen is highly intolerant to air pollution, so its presence signified good air quality.