Spirit of our time

Every Indian spirit seems to have won some kind of global award. Cheer, by all means. But what do the accolades really amount to?

- Kritika Kapoor

Take a shot for each time an Indian liquor brand won some kind of award in the last two years, and you'll be flat on the floor before dessert. Our botanical-infused gins, artisanal single-malts, saffron-spiced vodkas, craft brews and sparkling wines have won medals as far and wide as San Francisco, London, New Zealand, Tokyo and Singapore.

Homegrown booze now includes agave, vermouth, limencello, colour-changing gins, even a Konkani version of sake. Mahua, a fermented flower spirit from central India, is enjoying a trendy second life with some new artisanal branding. Goa's cashew feni, in an upmarket avatar, is being served at hip London bars. And every bottle comes with some kind of blue-ribbon cred, as if to say, "Haven't heard of us? Don't worry, you've picked a winner!"

Last month, two-year-old Cherrapunji Eastern Craft Gin from Northeast India bagged a double gold at the Spirits International Prestige Awards in California, its 14th international prize. In May, Maya Pistola Agavepura, made from the wild agave americana plant that grows in Chittoor, Andhra Pradesh, picked up gold and silver at the Asian Spirits Masters. It's haul includes more than 40 awards. Indian whiskies such as Indri and Godawan are collecting prizes like Pokémon cards — each has 50+ medals to its name.

Alcohol advertising is restricted in India. So, prizes are a useful way to let one brand stand out from the others. It brings media attention, social media eyeballs and validation among peers. Does a medal actually do much else? Pour yourself a glass of something and read on.

Gold rush