On a spicy note

Gourmand perfumes are entering an unexpected phase, with brands digging into the kitchen pantry for bolder, saltier inspirations

- VAISHALI DAR

GONE ARE THE days when gourmand fragrances were defined by soft rose, sugary vanilla, or candyfloss caramel.

Brands and perfumers are now digging into the kitchen pantry for bolder, saltier inspirations like coffee, cocoa, cardamom, clove, truffle, tomato leaf, basil, rice, carrot, and even fermented soybeans.

One recent example is singer-actor Selena Gomez's cosmetics company Rare Beauty that has taken its first swing at a fine fragrance brand, Rare Eau de Parfum, which landed at Sephora.com and the brand's website in August this year. It is warm and spicy with notes of creamy caramel as well as pistachio, peppery ginger, and pink pepper, making it the first venture in a new category for the brand since its 2020 debut.

Some of the 'edible' yet earthy ingredients are pushing fragrance into an entirely new olfactory landscape, one where comfort meets curiosity and nostalgia smells a lot more like spiced vegetables than flowers. Jang by Elorea, an Oriental floral fragrance for women and men is one such example with top notes like soybean that pays homage to traditional fermented sauces that form the foundation of Korean cuisine. Similarly, Indian brand Lavie Luxe's Pearl perfumes comprise a blend of jasmine and pink pepper, while Plum's Oh So Pistachio perfume features notes of pistachio, cardamom, and cocoa besides peony, hazelnut, rum, tonka, and sandalwood.