London gets its appetite back

Restaurant openings rise to their highest number since the pandemic

- Jonathan Prynn

RESTAURANT openings in London last year hit their highest level since before the pandemic despite the enormous pressures facing the industry from soaring energy and food bills, transport strikes, and home-working. 

Analysis shows there were 253 launches in the capital, up from 243 in 2022 and well above the 216 seen in 2021. The record remains the 281 openings seen in 2019, the year before Covid struck and hammered the industry.

The steady recovery over recent years suggests that the London restaurant scene may be in a healthier state than feared, although closures are also thought to be on the rise.

The openings appear to be concentrated towards the top end of the dining spectrum. Luxury venues dominate the list, including Japanese restaurant Aragawa, where diners can pay up to £900 for a wagyu steak.