Sand’s end

Scandinavia's seas and sights are an easy win for a no-fly cruise, says Nigel Thompson

- Nigel Thompson

My left foot is in the Baltic Sea, my right foot is in the North Sea and waves are dancing towards me from opposite directions. It's wild, wonderful and a little weird as I step off what feels like the edge of the known world into the chilly water.

This is Grenen, in Denmark, at the tip of the Jutland peninsula where a 20-mile long sand spit narrows to nothing as it is swallowed up by the famously treacherous seas of the Skagerrak (North) and Kattegat (Baltic), which meet but do not mix due to differences in salinity, density and temperature (or possibly they are just neighbours who fell out over a boundary dispute). Not so much Land's End, as Sand’s End.

My wife Debbie and I were on a tour from Ambassador's 1,400-passenger cruise ship Ambience, which is docked in nearby Skagen, Denmark's most northerly town.

It’s a smart, likeable place of yellow-hued, red-roofed homes, shops, hotels and restaurants, which draws two million visitors a year to see the Grenen spit, a church half-swallowed by the omnipresent sand, a fishing and lifeboat museum and memorial to the many lost sailors - and to paint in what is regarded as glorious light for artists.

The fishing port is one of Europe's largest, it’s the chief local employer and we were amazed by the vast size of some of the trawlers. Wed joined the ship, built in 1991 and given a major refurbishment in 2022, for a voyage to Scandinavia (or should that be Sandinavia?) from the London International Cruise Terminal in Tilbury, Essex. The Art Deco building dates from 1930 and is Grade II listed.

Handily, it’s just a half-hour drive from home for us – Ambassador also offers many convenient regional sailings from ports such as Bristol, Newcastle, Liverpool and Dundee – and it was an absolute doddle with the car park and luggage drop, then a short stroll to the terminal.