ON THE WATCHLIST

Feats of mechanical ingenuity dominate the watch industry this year.

- Allen Farmelo

Despite a decline in exported watches globally in 2025—or perhaps because of it—mechanical innovation has raced ahead of flashy trends and, in many instances, broken records along the way. This isn't to say that horological style trends have stopped dead, but the emphasis has certainly shifted back toward mechanical complexity and the never ending pursuit of precision.

Rolex Breaking Its Own Rules

Known for incremental change only, this year Rolex introduced the Land-Dweller, its first new model since 2012. While the Land-Dweller is late to the integrated bracelet trend, the highly innovative movement reveals the Crown's border agenda. Caliber 7135 sports the Dynapulse escapement, a laser-cut technical marvel that appears poised to displace the Swiss Lever Escapement found in nearly every other mechanical watch made today.

Grand Seiko Springs Into the Future