A Poet's Presence

Known as Robert Burns's favourite “howff”, fine dining and literary heritage come together in every bite at The Globe Inn

- TIM KNOWLES

THIS is version 9.5,” says head chef Fraser Cameron as our sea bass arrives.

We are at The Globe Inn in Dumfries, one-time haunt of Robert Burns and now a whisky bar, acclaimed restaurant and museum. We have just been served the third course of a stunning five-course tasting menu. The delicate sea bass fillet is served with Oscietra caviar, chopped beetroot and hollandaise sauce.

Fraser, 27, is a former Young Scottish Chef of the Year, who also once won a scholarship to work with Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles. He's held positions at other top restaurants, including Martin Wishart's The Honours, and is sitting among his guests at a single long table.

“The sea bass was my first ever signature dish,” he explains. “It's something I started to develop when I was at Andrew Fairlie's, and the first time it made it on to an actual menu was when I got to 21212 in Edinburgh, so it took a long time to develop and get it to a stage that was good enough to serve to the public.