HONK IF YOU LOVE PÃO!

The Fading Echo of Goa's Morning Bread Horn

- Gauri Ghadge

In the heart of Goa's sun-kissed villages, where the aroma of the sea mingles with the fragrance of blooming bougainvillea, a familiar sound once heralded the break of dawn-the distinctive honk of the poder's horn. Balancing a wicker basket brimming with freshly baked bread on their sturdy bicycles, these traditional bread sellers, known locally as poders, were the lifeline of Goan households, delivering warmth and sustenance right to the doorstep. Today, however, this cherished tradition teeters on the brink of obscurity, challenged by the relentless march of modernization and shifting societal dynamics.

The Rise of the Poder: A Slice of History

The term poder is derived from the Portuguese word padeiro, meaning baker, a testament to Goa's colonial past and the profound influence of Portuguese culture on its culinary landscape. Introduced in the 1550s by Jesuit missionaries, bread-making became an integral part of Goan life, with local converts adopting and adapting these techniques to create unique varieties of bread that have stood the test of time. citeturnOsearch2

Morning Melodies: The Poder's Daily Ritual

At the crack of dawn, the poder would embark on his daily journey, navigating narrow lanes and bylanes, his horn-a simple rubber bulb attached to a metal reed-serving as both announcement and invitation. Villagers, young and old, would gather at their doorsteps, exchanging pleasantries and news as they awaited their share of pão (soft bread), undo (crusty rolls), or poee (whole wheat pockets). This ritual was more than a mere transaction; it was a thread in the intricate tapestry of community life, weaving bonds of familiarity and trust. citeturnOsearch8

The Bread Basket: Varieties That Define Goan Cuisine