Wipe the plate clean

Delhi's food scene has been lagging behind Mumbai's and Bengaluru's. Could the new Eldeco Centre change the game? It serves Bengali, Latin American and much more

- VIR SANGHVI

It pains me to say this, but when it comes to food, Delhi has lost out. Bengaluru is now the food capital of India. And Mumbai is the only other city where exciting things are happening.

Part of Delhi's problem has been a lack of space. That has eased somewhat with the opening of a new restaurant hub in South Delhi called Eldeco Centre. I haven't been to all of the Eldeco places but I have eaten at four of them.

6 Ballygunge Place is an outpost of the celebrated Kolkata restaurant. Years of living in Kolkata taught me that the standard Bong response to restaurants serving their own cuisine has two steps. The first step is joy, happiness and pride. The second step, after the meal is: “It is okay. But you know, my mother's food is so much better.”

In this case, I guess we have a variation on step two: “It is fine but the Kolkata branch is so much better.” That was my reaction too! You should try it anyway. (For the record: I was recognised.)

Kaméi is an oriental restaurant from the Wadhwas, the restaurateurs behind the popular Fio restaurants. They have been asking me to visit ever since Kaméi opened, but I was able to sneak in, unrecognised, one day for lunch.

The food is crowd-pleasing Asian. I tried lots of things: Chicken Kara-age, a lurid rose prawn har gao dumpling, prawn tempura and spicy tuna. All and of it was cooked to a certain standard, which is why the restaurant is doing well. Maybe I will go back.