From Bitonto To Singapore: Creating Culture

THIS MONTH'S GUEST SHIFT FEATURES ACCLAIMED CHEF AND RESTAURATEUR MIRKO FEBBRILE DISCUSSING THE MEANING OF CULTURE IN FOOD.

- MIRKO FEBBRILE

CULTURE. IT’S A BIG WORD. I spent my childhood in the Puglian countryside, growing up in the small town of Bitonto. Life was simple back then. Since both my parents worked, I spent my days as I pleased and found joy in baking for the family.

Through the people surrounding me, I gained a deeper understanding of Italian culture: the kind hospitality of my neighbours who lent me that one missing egg for a chocolate cake; the ability to have and enjoy open discourse over the dining table, where you learned to defend ideas and not take offence at different viewpoints; the warm embrace of strangers who would quickly become friends. Happiness always felt within reach as we ate simply and drank wildly.

As I write this, Somma—meaning sum—an Italian dining experience we have created with The Lo & Behold Group, is just weeks away from opening. It represents the somma of my choices over the last three decades. It also reflects my journey from Puglia to Singapore and the many adventures around the world I’ve had the privilege to experience. In the lead-up to the opening, I keep thinking of the word “culture”. It’s my North Star and the word that rolls off my tongue in meetings. It’s something intangible yet attainable. It anchors everything.