Sweet Heat

Chicken wings bring back cherished memories of my grandfather

- BY IVY ODOM

EVERY TUESDAY night around suppertime, I think of my grandfather. When I was growing up, Tuesdays were reserved for our dinner dates. I'd call Papa up a few days before to confirm and let him know my restaurant pick. Moultrie, Georgia, is small, so we would rotate among our usual spots. One of his favorites was Barber's Drive In, a beloved local joint that was known for their cheeseburgers, slaw, fried pies, and chicken. Their wings were deep-fried and tossed in a sweet and spicy sauce and they were the best I've ever had. Papa loved them, and I liked watching him eat them. There was a special art to the way he would clean the meat clear off the bone, and he was sure to pick off any that I might have left behind. Taking the meat from someone else's half-eaten chicken is surely a sign of true love for the other person...or for wings. In his case, I think it was probably both. It's been years since I've enjoyed a Tuesday supper with Papa, but this recipe is my way to relive all those sweet memories. Although I've made a few tweaks, including baking them instead of frying, I know he would have approved of my version. Every time I make them-or any wing recipe, for that matter-I smile