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Tasting Plate: A German Six-Pack
Wine Spectator
|December 15, 2024
Though it boasts Western Europe’s largest population and biggest economy, Germany is nowhere near the cheese juggernaut its neighbors Switzerland and France are. That said, the Germans love their fine cheeses, and they do turn out some excellent ones, fortunately including more than a handful that are currently available here in the U.S.
The hub of Germany’s fine-cheese production is the Allgäu region, in the southernmost part of the country, bordering on Austria and mostly within the province of Bavaria, where you find alpine pastures and traditional dairies.
Generally speaking, German cheeses tend toward rustic; they’re decidedly unpretentious and often boldly full-flavored. Whatever they may lack in sophistication, they make up for with straightforward, plain-spoken character: They don’t try to be slick. Pair them with a good rye bread or pumpernickel and, for alcoholic beverages, a quality lager or Pilsner, served ice cold, or an off-dry or Kabinett Riesling.
David Gibbons is co-author of Mastering Cheese.
1 ALP BLOSSOM ($20 for 8 ounces; murrays.com) Here’s a cheese that’s garnered a cult following in the U.S. and elsewhere not only for its attractive rind, studded in a multicolored array of dried herbs and flowers, but also for embodying the best of Bavarian alpine traditions. Made by Albert Kraus of Hofkäsarei Kraus, it’s semisoft with a smooth, dense texture and features sweet, milky flavors with a slight hint of ferment and pleasant floral notes. Meanwhile, the aromas from the rind conjure a lovely flowering alpine meadow.
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