Open Range

South Africa offers a wider array of wine than ever before

- ALISON NAPJUS

Wine from South Africa has come a long way in the past 30 years. Quality wine production from the Cape became more widespread only in the 1990s, but by 1995 top historic estates were already earning outstanding scores from Wine Spectator-some even showing up on its annual Top 100 list.

The market for South African wine in the United States grew slowly from 270,000 cases in 2000 to 1.1 million cases in 2019, according to Impact Databank. Yet during the COVID-19 pandemic, these numbers have skyrocketed, with imports to the U.S. tripling between 2019 and 2021 and finishing out last year with an impressive 3.2 million cases.

What should you be drinking from South Africa? The answer is almost anything from a winery with a track record for quality. Since my previous report ("Charting Their Own Course," July 31, 2021), I have reviewed nearly 175 wines in blind tastings, including bottlings from more than 60 different producers. The country's offerings are expansive, including fresh sparklers, whites and rosés, reds both lively and rich, and luscious dessert wines. There's truly something to appeal to nearly every palate.

At the entry-level, a number of affordable bottlings provide good examples of the primary grape varieties grown in South Africa, including Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah among the reds and Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc among the whites. Several versions available for $20 or less are perfect for stocking up on for casual, everyday enjoyment.

Value prevails even among the best wines from South Africa. In this year's report, the median price point of wines rated 90 points or higher is $40 per bottle, and only seven of the wines under review carry price tags surpassing $100. Unsurprisingly, pricing tops out among the three most highly rated wines.