VIENNA City of Wine

Carol Wright shines a spotlight on Vienna, famous for its city vineyards, wine taverns and coffee houses

- Carol Wright

Vienna is the world's largest wine city with vineyards within its boundaries that shape its horizons and provide areas for open-air leisure.

Although wine was made here as early as 500 BC, it was Roman Emperor Probus (232-282 AD) who started serious wine growing in the city. Wine then formed part of a Roman soldier's pay and this wine was produced in Italy which meant it had to be transported to soldiers in far flung corners of the Roman Empire. Probus, to save costs, brought Italian vines to Vienna and had wine produced on the spot. In time Vienna's viticulture expanded both inside and outside its walls. Even today the city's smallest vineyard remains on Schwarzenbergplatz mainly producing Gemischter Satz, Vienna's signature wine that is currently experiencing a revival of popularity.

In the Middle Ages Vienna's wine became so sour that drinking it was forbidden. It was called 'cask eater' as it could dissolve the hoops binding barrels. Honey or saffron was often added to improve the taste. When 19th century phylloxera destroyed almost all the vines, new vine stock was imported from America by Baron Babo who imported and set up a wine school. In the 1980's there was a further replanting of the city's vineyards. Wine has since become important economically and is supported by the city authorities who have declared the vineyards to be specially protected areas.

In earlier days it was the Imperial court who looked after the wine industry. In 1784 an imperial regulation, still in force, organised the serving of the wines in taverns. It was decreed pine branches should be hung outside, something which still indicates a typical Viennese wine tavern.