Wine wisdom
Decanter|April 2024
Our regular learning section helps you get more from your glass
Wine wisdom

Ask Decanter

Each month our experts answer your burning wine questions. Email your queries to editor@decanter.com

SOUTHERN SPECIALITY

What is Susumaniello? 

Caroline Marshall, by email 

Marisa Finetti, Decanter writer, replies: Susumaniello is an ancient and wellregarded red blending grape native to Puglia. While still considered rare, it’s enjoying a surge in popularity due to renewed interest in obscure and indigenous Italian grape varieties. Concentrated in Salento, particularly in the Brindisi area, Susumaniello was historically made as a sweet wine, then as a blending wine, reaching its peak during the 1970s. The grape’s name is derived from the word for ‘donkey’, believed to be a reference to its high productivity, as in ‘loading up the donkey’. However, after 10-15 years, its vigour drops drastically, which led to a corresponding drop in its reputation, leading to its near demise.

Today, passionate producers are pushing Susumaniello towards its greatest revitalisation. Previously used almost exclusively as a blending partner, Susumaniello is stepping into the solo spotlight. Its versatility spans ageable red wines, bright and fruity rosatos, and lively sparkling wines.

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