SETTING THE PACE

Home to one first growth and some of France's finest red and white wines, Pessac-Léognan is still not nearly as well known internationally as its superstar neighbour regions. But exciting new developments suggest this could be set to change

- ELIN MCCOY

March was a starry month for Bordeaux's Pessac-Léognan, but most wine lovers didn't even realise it. Backstage at the glamorous 95th Academy Awards ceremony in Hollywood, nominees and winners sipped La Clarté de Haut-Brion, a white wine made by first growth Château Haut-Brion in Pessac-Léognan. Yet few wine lovers outside France know that appellation name, or that in 1987 it was carved from the northern part of the wider Graves region south of Bordeaux.

Wildly energetic Jacques Lurton, who became the president of the Syndicat de Pessac-Léognan last year, aims for global awareness. He says: 'I want to shake the tree. Pes -Léognan should be one of the best-known names in Bordeaux, like Margaux in the Médoc and St-Emilion on the Right Bank. Our identity is our wines' high quality. Our style is elegance and balance, not excess."

You could argue it's the most dynamic wine spot in Bordeaux. A recently opened cellar is the region's ultimate in eco-consciousness. Winemakers are experimenting with new grapes and wines. A vibrant tourism scene includes Bordeaux's first 'forest bathing' tasting, and much more.

Lurton likes to talk about the future, but Pessac also has a long, illustrious wine history, and for centuries was more important than the Médoc. The warm local climate, partly shaped by the pine forests sheltering vines from wind and humidity, and a range of terroirs make it special for both reds and whites. Yet it was only Château Haut-Brion in this region that was classified in the 1855 classification. The Crus Classés de Graves, a group of 16 top châteaux, wasn't created until 1953. All are in Pessac-Léognan.