NO D.O.

If you see 'Vino de España' on a Spanish wine label, nowadays it may well mean it's been made by a producer who likes to think outside the box on quality and creativity. Meet some of the Spanish winemakers determined to carve their own path, beyond the conformities demanded in the well-known regions...

- STORY & SELECTION BETH WILLARD

When we take our first steps in wine study, we learn about famous appellations, permitted grape varieties and myriad regulations - often strange, at least to the newcomer. This is how I started to piece together the ‘official’ version of the wine world. Was it the same for you?

But right now, many producers in Spain are operating outside the rules governed by their denominación de origen (DO) - the Spanish equivalent of appellation. Some of their wines are among the best in Spain and are either classified within a PGI (protected geographical indication) – a defined wider area that has less demanding specifications - or as Vino de España or Vino Varietal, broad classifications largely unburdened by geographical limitations or production-method stipulations. There are many reasons for producers to classify their wines in less restrictive categories, and we will examine several of these.

First, it is important to explain that this is not an anti-DO rant! The problems and advantages of DOs vary from region to region, some being relatively free from issues, but others seemingly inflicting a great deal of self-harm as a result of politics, intransigence or both. Spain’s DO system does a lot of work on behalf of its producers to protect viticultural regions and promote them throughout the world. On the other hand, many producers face roadblocks that stem from DO regulations which have, in many cases, failed to adapt to the challenges and ambitions of producers. And then there are producers who are simply forced by geography or style to think outside the box, or rather in this case, outside DO borders.

The Spanish market

In the Spanish domestic market, most consumers favour wines from DOs. In a 2024 report (