Modern MARSALA

From solera-aged classics to savoury new still wines, Marsala is finding fresh momentum. Emerging new expressions span cocktails, cuisine and culture, bursting with freshness, finesse and plenty of attitude

- STORY MARISA FINETTI

Western Sicily is never entirely at rest. The land is shaped by limestone plateaus that sit above subterranean pockets of fresh rainwater, while the ongoing tectonic tension between the African and Eurasian plates means that earth tremors are a familiar feature of life. The island of Sicily itself has undergone upheavals and constant evolution throughout its history, marked by centuries of conquests. At its far-western tip, the fortunes of Marsala (from Marsa Allah, meaning 'Harbour of God' in Arabic) were shaped by the seafaring empire of Britain, which brought its wines global reach during the 19th century before they began to fall out of favour in the latter part of the 20th.

Today, like the land itself, Marsala is in motion once again, with a new generation of wine producers leading a quiet renaissance that reframes the narrative through quality, authenticity and innovation. They are blowing off the dust and reintroducing Marsala as a source of wines worthy of the modern table.

Hello, Grillo

At the heart of Marsala's revival is the Grillo grape, a natural cross between Catarratto and Zibibbo (aka Muscat of Alexandria). Of the varieties permitted for making Marsala - Inzolia (known elsewhere as Ansonica), Cataratto, Damaschino, Grillo, Nerello Mascalese, Nero d'Avola (Calabrese) and Perricone - producers believe that Grillo is singularly vital, possessing naturally high alcohol that allows for minimal fortification and thereby preserves Marsala's character (see more on Grillo, p79). Its capacity to resist heat also brings acidity and resultant tension - the ideal backbone for wines destined for long ageing.