Greek rosé

As we hit peak rosé season, our Grecophile writer is on a mission to get the message out that this popular holiday destination is also the place to go for vibrant and exciting pink wines

- OLLY SMITH

For inimitable style, consistent quality and impressive value, rosé wine from Greece has the potential to become a category leader. Strange then to discover that, officially at least, Greek rosé doesn’t exist. Sete, the Greek Wine Federation, whose members produce 75% of the total volume of wine produced in Greece and export 95% of bottled Greek wine, has until now been counting rosé in with red wine, so it’s impossible to say exactly how much rosé is flowing from one of my favourite wine nations.

For certain, Greek wine is on the rise in the UK. For a second consecutive year, the Federation reports, exports to the UK exceeded €7 million, up by 57% on the five-year average. And the rise of rosé may prove a significant jewel in their crown.

HEART & SOUL

Scrubby Grecian hillsides fringed with herbs, pines and sea are perfectly suited to the production of everybody’s favourite poolside glass. On my annual pilgrimage to the Greek wine fair Oenorama in Athens earlier this year (oenorama.​com – next edition, 7-10 March 2025), rosé was unquestionably the major buzz. I tasted plenty of varietal rosés from local grapes such as Xinomavro, which tends towards summer fruit with a hint of sundried tomato, or Fokiano with its salty strawberry thrill. Blends commonly fuse a splash of red with fragrant whites such as Malagousia or Moschofilero, which lifts Greek rosé to the headiest refreshment.

There’s also heritage to consider. Take, for instance, Iliana Malíhin’s sublimely rich, lees-aged Liatiko Rosé 2022