What a difference a year makes! My sense of déjà vu quickly disappeared as I tasted through the 2018s. These wines are nothing like the brawny 2017s; Brunellino (‘little Brunello’) was the expression being bandied around by the Italians.
Conditions in 2018 are described as fresh. Following the prolonged drought of 2017, winter rains and snowfall replenished depleted reserves. Spring was cool and wet, encouraging vigorous vegetation. Hailstorms hit the southwest mid-July, with Col d’Orcia and Argiano losing 20% and 25% of production respectively. Recurring showers marked the summer. August was significantly cooler, especially towards the end of the month. September saw notable diurnal temperature differences, favourable for ripening Sangiovese. However, there were two periods of rain that prompted picking. Producers with holdings in both the north and south generally noted more intense rainfall in the former. Certain pockets were more prone to humidity and rot. In the warmest corners, picking started around 14 September with harvest continuing through to mid-October. The challenge was balancing phenolic and sugar ripeness against the risk of rot.
GENTLE TREATMENT
Even with strict selections to bring in healthy grapes, the vintage yielded thin-skinned berries requiring gentle handling. Strategies included lower fermentation temperatures, fewer and shorter pump-overs, as well as brief maceration periods. Le Ragnaie’s Riccardo Campinotti bottled 2018 at the same time as his 2017s to maintain freshness. For similar reasons, Cecilia Leoneschi at Castiglion del Bosco opted for less racking [transferring wine between vessels to clarify or oxygenate it] during cask ageing. ‘In a year like 2018, this was fundamental,’ she declared.
Bu hikaye Decanter dergisinin April 2023 sayısından alınmıştır.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber ? Giriş Yap
Bu hikaye Decanter dergisinin April 2023 sayısından alınmıştır.
Start your 7-day Magzter GOLD free trial to access thousands of curated premium stories, and 8,500+ magazines and newspapers.
Already a subscriber? Giriş Yap
Wine wisdom
Our regular learning section helps you get more from your glass
Around ABRUZZO
A stunning, under-explored, year-round destination with an extraordinary natural setting, Abruzzo’s appeal lies in its rustic villages and a sunny-natured, hospitable local character
UMBRIA A wine lover's guide
In the heart of Italy lies an undulating landscape dotted with hilltop villages and draped with olive groves, where winemakers are breathing new life into long-neglected indigenous grape varieties
Lessons in LAMBRUSCO
Coming from the same region of northern Italy as some of the world’s most famous names in food, the wide range of Lambrusco wines provide ample scope for complementing meals both local and international, while refreshing the palate, too
Sustainable cocktails THE FUTURE?
In every industry, it's pretty much the hottest topic right now, but what does the S-word mean when it comes to cocktail-making? Leading experts give us their take and share eco-conscious recipes to replicate at home
VENTOUX AOC The rising star of the Rhône
The Southern Rhone appellation is emerging as a community-led force of innovation and sustainability.
Polkadraai Hills
This lesser-known corner of South Africa’s Stellenbosch region is starting to turn heads, thanks to its special soils and a close-knit community of talented young winemakers
BY FARR
The enigmatic Nick Farr, of Australia's celebrated By Farr winery, is famously reluctant to entertain the wine media or submit samples for tasting. So we jumped at an opportunity to visit the family estate in Geelong to taste some of the country's most sought-after Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
Brunello di Montalcino 2019: 30 picks from a 5-star vintage
It's a vintage to bring cheer to Tuscany lovers' hearts, and the first of what is being billed as a strong run of three to come. The successful 2019 Brunello wines offer richness, balance and immediate appeal while also managing to avoid excess
Brunello di Montalcino 2019
It's a vintage to bring cheer to Tuscany lovers' hearts, and the first of what is being billed as a strong run of three to come. The successful 2019 Brunello wines offer richness, balance and immediate appeal while also managing to avoid excess